Week 3 -Oregon Coast Trail – SHE

Webb Country Park to Lincoln Beach (Devils Lake State Park)

Clean Hair Day

Hiker Biker campsite with lockers and USB chargers. Awesome. Cory also found a tiny bottle of Pantene, joy of joys, I have clean hair. First time in about 9 days!

In Oregon the preferred greeting seems to be “Howdy“, Cory reckons if he says this we won’t get engaged in conversation (that and avoiding eye contact). We’d not get anywhere if we engaged in a conversation with everyone who wants a wee chat.

He got a wee bit topsy-turvy today though “Heidi” he greeted a fellow Beach walker. Nope that’s me !! Hehe!

Lincoln Beach to Beverley Beach State Park

The Crow Bagel Raid

Oh my feet hurt tonight! Too much tarmac on today’s route. We had three Beach walks, roughly with a total of 9 miles. With the wind behind us, Gortex Jackets on, hoods up, we made good time on the beaches. The one huge estuary we had to get over or around, we hitched to avoid the 4.5 miles of highway 101 walking.

Over 20 minutes for a hitch, all the good people on their way to church, too focused to pick us up. A lovely Mexican man, covered in paint, on his way to Newport to pick up more paint (as he had ran out).

“When I moved here, I didn’t even know how to use the bus, I walked everywhere”

Ah the angel 😉

Then more walking …
With only 1.6 miles to go, I needed another wee rest. As my feet were throbbing so much after a huge tarmac walk through Depoe Bay and beyond.

For tea tonight we had a rare tin of tomato soup and bagels planned of course with crisps as the aperitif! Cory was off for his shower and unnoticed (be me), a crow was hopping along towards our picnic bench. I ran over and chased it away. I then went back to my iPhone charging in the locker. Next I see 4 crows in the tree, a mob! I ran to our picnic bench. The blighters had burst the bag and half a bagel was gone.

I changed my sentry duty to the bench to secure the grub. Tonight we will sleep with the 4 bagels we have left in our tent 🙂

Beverley State Park to South Beach State Park

French ‘do’ have a sense of humour!

Slept in, again. Lazy OCT timetable! We awoke at 7, my bed a pancake, again! We’d heard a creature last night, snuffling and creeping around the tent but all the food was intact.

South, after granola and powdered milk, a beautiful chilly morning with a North Easterly wind. Favourable for us south bounders!

The sea mist built up and came in. Plunging us into the cold. We walked past two lighthouses today and visited neither, as usual, on a mission to camp.

Wisdom, wit or gobble-de-gook

“Where are you walking from?”
“On zee beach?”
“What nationality are you, but, you are not Americans?”
“No, Scottish”
“Yes, I know it, as me, I am French ” said the lady. The implication being that Americans don’t walk.

“Is this the hiker biker camp?” Lady wheeling in her bike.
“Bloody hell your Scottish ” mandy
“And so are you”
” where are you from, Glasgow?”
“No Stirling, and you?” mandy
“Stirling” Lucy (lady wheeling bike).

South Bay State Park – taking a zero

Blonde again!

Hair done, library visited and full use of the McDonald’s app! BURP!! Huge traffic jam as we tried to get back to camp.

South Bay State Park to Bayview State Park ( beyond Waldport)

Eyeless Fish In the fog

On the road by 7:50! Early for the OCT part-timers. 6+ miles of empty beach. Low tide was 8:30 and we hit Beaver Creek after 10:00. It meant soggy feet for the rest of the day.

We spotted another Bald Eagle on the beach, it is top viewing before the heat of the day builds and they use the thermals.

Later on there were 6 or 7 vultures on the beach. They slowly took off as we approached. We thought it was a dead guillemot ( we have seen a lot) or perhaps a young seal pup. No, it was a huge fish, still fresh but its eyes gone. Cory burst its skin, with his walking poles, to give the vultures easier access.

The souls of my feet are very sore today. Sore much earlier than usual. My decathlon shoes are officially ‘bounce-less’. They’ve walked over 1000 miles and are also ‘sole-less’. I was hobbling with 5 miles to go!!

My second ‘gaiter‘ now has a hole in it too. I cut another scrap off my ‘half towel’, got out the sewing kit and darned away. Then I added some duct tape as an extra security measure!

No USB chargers at this campsite:-( it means hanging around the loos, looking ‘well dodge’ , as you try to charge them while ensuring no one helps themselves to your phone!

Bayview State Park to Carl G Wasbourne State Park

Lazy,lazy. Lazy! Although we wake up early, unlike the PCT, there’s no rush! We had the left over granola with powdered milk, followed by bagel and cream cheese and tea.

Then out onto the beach! It had started misty and big droplets of water had been plopping on us heads in camp. However 10 minutes into the walk we were stripping off layers.

We had lots of creek crossings (none mentioned in Bonnies Book- oh the letter we could write). It’s not comfortable to walk a entire day with soaking shoes, socks and feet. Starting to feel the scratchy rub of athletes foot as it begins to slowly build to a burn. Like sandpaper between your toes.

Yachats is the little holiday town on the route today. Cory calls it Coffee town ( a different sort of one track mind). He’s busy working out his fitness plan for his next challenge and is discussion a core work out. I rename it the Bagel Belly, due to our new addiction affliction.

We head to the posh bakery cafe. Cory has? Yes, coffee. I have a hot chocolate. A croissant costs $4.50, a muffin too! The produce is baked fresh in the back shop, into which you can see, dreadlocked artisans playing with flower and rolling pins.

I’m dying to take off my shoes and air my fungus toes but I think it may result in a health notice being issued to the bakery and exterminators being brought in. So I silently suffer.

Next stop the supermarket. $5.99 foot long sub and our favourite $2 bag of salty tortillas. We bounce along now excited at the prospect of lunch.

We are surprised to kind OCT trail signs. A pleasant surprise and we head onto Amanda’s Trail which will eventually take us to Cape Perpetua.

What an UP! The sweat is pouring off me and my little hummingbird heart is fit to pop. We pass the Amanda statue ( gps tracker and surveillance cameras) and hike the lush dark green forest paths.

I warn Cory about counting chickens too early. Which we do. I think 3 times the chickens were out of their basket! Eventually after what felt like 80% of up, and many false downs, a sign!

Another 15 minutes and we are at the look out and more importantly a picnic table. How quickly can a foot look Bavarian ham and cheese sub disappear? Pretty darn fast!

We get chilled at the top of the Cape. The sweat saturated merino tops drying on our skin, under the shady trees. We wrap up in our down jackets.

Down to the Interpretation centre and clean loos for a hand and face freshen up.

The next section is mostly road walk so we decide to hitch at the ‘turn-out’ to view the water spouts. The parking bays are full in fact so full that people are double parked. Famous last words”this shouldn’t take long…”

We aren’t sure how long it took but it ‘did’ take long. Maybe an hour.

An elderly gentlemen on his way to dinner at the casino in Florence was kind enough to stop. I think he was a little hard of hearing, as Cory had to live up to one of his trail names, Translator!

Wisdom, wit or gobbledegook

I asked (the elderly gentlemen) if he had won the free dinner. “Nope (he giggled), I just used to spend too much money there and they gave me vouchers to make me come back”

“What do you folks do back home, are you teachers?”
“Cory owns a training business but I’m now unemployed” I reply.
“Well good for you! If there is one thing I’ve learned after getting to this age, it’s to take every opportunity that comes to you!”

We get dropped off at Carl G Washbourne State Park and now that it is Central Coast it is only $10 a night (no USB ports though but last night didn’t either). It’s freezing under the trees. So we make our ramen from the shelter of the tent and wash it down with tea and dried cranberries.

Carl G Washbourne State Park to Florence.

An Elephant Pees on The Tent!

A spring in our step this morning. The last day of our Oregon Coast Trail. Awake before 6am, although not too much of a surprise as my Garmin says I’d slept for 11and 1/2 hours!

There seems to have been a little mishapduring the night. First time in ages I needed a midnight pee, it seems I forgot the rules of gravity! ‘Things’ seem to have ran down a wee slope to under the tent and onto our walking poles!

Cory thought to was a visit from a deer during the night. I couldn’t let the deer take the rap for me! It was the ‘elephant pee!’

We were on the beach before 8am, Hobbit Beach, all to ourselves, then onwards up the Hobbit Trail, then up up up to Heceta Head and down down to our first lighthouse close enough to touch.

Next we have to get through the Tight Tunnel which the OCT now recommend that hikers Do Not Walk through. 9:04 we started hitching to ensure we don’t risk our life’s in the Tunnel of Doom! 9:35, the lovely Jim stops on the way to pick up his wife from the airport.

Wisdom, wit or gobbledegook

He’s heading to Florence, McDonalds in fact, for breakfast! We think…’what an excellent idea!’ And we trundle all the way into town for Second Breakfast.



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